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Everest 2013 Chad Kellogg Fraud

Dear Washington State Attorney General and Governor’s Office:

Chad Kellogg and his sponsor Outdoor Research have been engaged in an attempt to deceive the US public into believing that there are 2 existing Mt. Everest records set by French mountaineer Marc Batard which do not in fact exist, as I clearly show in my letter to Outdoor Research below.

They are clearly doing this in order to have two records for Kellogg to have a better chance of breaking.

They are exploiting the public’s lack of knowledge of Everest records to their advantage.

They are mis-educating the public as to what the current records are, and in so doing are engaging in a system of fraud, set up to Kellogg’s and their advantage, and abusing the public’s trust in them to provide accurate information.

Kellogg was revealed to the world recently by Outside Magazine (article provided below) for having engaged in steroid drug-doping for his 2010 and 2012 Everest speed-climb attempts.

Most of the public is ignorant of what the Everest records are; and there are no official/objective sources that provide a clear exposition of the history of Everest records.

I have spent 12 years researching the history of Everest records, and with no question they are engaging in fraudulent reporting for their advantage.

Their contact information is:

Charles Lozner 206.971.1496 (Outdoor Research marketing clozner@gmail.com)

Christian Folk 206.971.1496 (Outdoor Research public relations cfolk@outdoorresearch.com)

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Dear Outdoor Research:
In your video on Chad Kellogg, at about 1 minute, he makes two claims about who holds the current Everest records, and his claims are false, as a matter of proof.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JS9pg89yoZ0&list=UUIqJErhN98386ivdrXQW1Fw
He states that Marc Batard holds the round-trip record of “36 hours”, which is false, as I demonstrate below with objective information, reports, sources, etc.
He also states that Batard still holds the ascent record, which is false, as a matter of proof, as Kazi Sherpa broke Batard’s record ten years later by over two hours, as I show below with objective sources.
He also gave the wrong date for Batard’s past record, which was 1988 rather than 1990.Below are several of the objective sources and information revealing that your and Kellogg’s claim that Marc Batard set a “36 hour” Mt. Everest round-trip record is fabricated, and fraudulent.
You also claim Batard holds the current ascent record in 22h:29m.  There are, also, renowned sources that show that this record was broken 10 years later in 1998 by Kazi Sherpa.  The sources are Elizabeth Hawley (renowned Everest historian) and the Everest Summiters Association.  Both of their public statements are linked to and quoted below.

(1) What public documentation and source do you have for stating, at the below story, that Batard did a 36 hour round trip climb?

“… Batard’s round-trip time (36 hours)”

http://www.outdoorresearch.com/blog/stories/chad-kellogg-to-attempt-to-break-everest-speed-climbing-record

Further, what date do you have for this supposed record?  If you cite the existence of a record on the tallest mountain in the world, you should provide a date for the supposed record.

I and the large number of researchers with whom I’ve been in discussion since 2002 have never seen any sources citing that Batard claimed any round-trip time whatsoever.

There are no media reports about this, no statements in any books, and this is not listed on Batard’s own extensive website.

(2) This is a book-page from the 1999 American Alpine Club Journal

http://books.google.com/books?id=UhmT3_I_xU4C&lpg=PA374&dq=everest%2C%20south%20col%2Fsoutheast%20ridge%2C%20speed%20ascent&pg=PA374#v=onepage&q=everest%2C%20south%20col%2Fsoutheast%20ridge%2C%20speed%20ascent&f=false

This is a detailed section written by Everest historian Elizabeth Hawley about Marc Batard and Kazi Sherpa’s speed climbing.  (She misspells his name is ‘Kaji’).  There is no mention whatsoever of any round-trip record by Marc Batard, nor any 36 hour time.

Further, she states that Kazi broke Batard’s record on October 17, 1998 (as also confirmed by the Everest Summiteers Association here)
http://www.everestsummiteersassociation.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=24&Itemid=27
by over two hours, with a time of 20 hours 24 minutes.  You have persistently in many press releases cited Batard as still holding the record fro his 1988 climb of 22 hours 29 minutes, 10 years before Kazi broke his record.

(3)  1990 Los Angeles Times article on Marc Batard’s 1988 Everest record-claim

http://articles.latimes.com/1990-05-10/news/vw-1610_1_batard-climbed-everest-solo

Batard is interviewed at length about the intricacy of his speed-climb (his 22 hour 29 minute record-claim for a climb from basecamp to the summit, on the South Col Route).

There is no mention of a round-trip speed-climb.

There are no articles, books, magazines, websites, etc, anywhere, that mention that Batard did a round-trip speed-climb; and there is absolutely no mention of a 36 hour time for him, for anything, anywhere.

There are dozens of other interviews with Batard in all forms of media, and he never mentions having done any round-trip speed climb, nor any 36 hour time.

(4)  This is an archive of Batard’s website — it appears his website is currently not available.

http://web.archive.org/web/20120928235538/http://www.marcbatard.com/marcbatard.htm

A careful reading through the page only shows his 1988 record-claim.

• Ascension de l’Everest (8 848 m.) sans oxygène, en 22h30, le 26 septembre”

Translated to:

• Ascent of Everest (8848 m.) Without oxygen in 22:30, September 26.

(5) In Batard’s book, ‘Le sprinter de l’Everest’ [The Sprinter of Everest]

http://books.google.com/books/about/Le_Sprinter_de_l_Everest.html?id=H7e3AAAACAAJ

there is absolutely no mention of a 36 hour time, nor any round-trip time whatsoever.  Please obtain this book.

(6) Further, this 36 hour time is obviously a rounded-off time.
As is very obvious, record times, especially world record times on the biggest mountain in the world, should surely have the minutes along with the hours.
Rounding off a time is unacceptable, and further evidence of the lack of credibility of the record-claim.
Not only is this 36 hour time without any public sources, the time itself lacks credibility due to being an approximation.

(7) Kellogg Caught Drug-Doping:
Outside Magazine has recently revealed that Kellogg has engaged in steroid drug-doping for his Everest speed climbs.
13th paragraph from the bottom.

http://www.outsideonline.com/fitness/Climbings-Little-Helper.html?page=all

Marc Batard and Kazi Sherpa did not state that they used Dex drug-doping for their speedclimbs.

In the article Kellogg states he used the Drug for “preventative” and only “1 pill”.  The drug is used for performance enhancing, by staving of the degradation of physical and neurological functioning.  That is why it is taken, like all of the other doping drugs.  And his assertion about 1 pill is certainly fraudulent, because this is not how the drug is taken to be effective.  It is taken over many doses per day.  And, “1 pill” says nothing of the dose he took, which could have been very high.  He likely stated this to try to lie and diminish what he did.  This is a masterful politician.  Further, I discussed this matter with the writer Devon O’Neil and he stated that Kellogg provided inconsistent testimony over time http://devononeil.com/contact.aspx

(8)  Batard’s and Kazi’s records were completely solo, and almost entirely unsupported.  Kellogg’s sponsor is paying thousands of dollars for substantial support along the route to the summit.  Kellogg is not climbing solo, is receiving substantial Sherpa aid including a Sherpa to climb with him from Camp 4 to the Summit over the most difficult and dangerous large section of the route to the summit including carrying O2 for him if he needs it, and is having substantial gear/food/water/shelter support at all camps, and is drug-doping for performance assistance (to stave off the degradation of physical and neurological functioning).  This is multifaceted short cutting, and is not honorable, nor honest.  The previous climbers did not do this.

(9)  Summit-fraud.
Please note that Kellogg has engaged in 3 instances of apparent summit-claim fraud.
https://mountaineerfrauds.wordpress.com/2013/05/01/summit-claim-controversies/

The well known high fraud case of his 2003 Denali record-claim:
http://fraudmountaineer.wordpress.com/2011/10/31/2003-denali-fraud-case-chad-kellogg/

(10)  Killian Jornet rejects Kellogg’s 2003 Denali claim.  Killian is a world class competitive athlete and considered the greatest trail runner in the world, and will be attempting speed records on Everest, Denali, etc, over the next two years.
http://www.summitsofmylife.com/en/the-challenge
He can be contacted via his website.

At the above page, he lists record for every mountain except Denali.  This is a further, public demonstration that he does not accept the legitimacy of Kellogg’s record-claim, and for this we are extremely grateful.
(11)  Please discontinue deceiving the public, and please discontinue supporting the multifaceted short cutting and drug doping of Kellogg, and the apparent fraudulent contriving of a 36 hour record time.  You are complicit in fraud by not discontinuing this.
(12)  Please convey this matter to the other senior staff at Outdoor Research.
(13)  Please do basic fact-checking and research before publishing what Kellogg tells you.  In my opinion he is likely the most devious fraud of the modern time, in the tradition of Dr. Frederick Cook of the 1906 Denali fraud and other frauds (North Pole, etc).
(14)  Obviously you are publishing Anything that makes you and Kellogg look good, and which give you and Kellogg the greatest advantage.  Due to this, you are engaging in unethical, devious, dishonorable, and dishonest conduct.  As an adult, you should have more discipline over your conduct, and you’re deceiving of the public is grotesque.

(15) Correct Mt. Everest records, with abundant 3rd party sources, including the American Alpine Club, Mountainzone.com, The Guardian, and The Everest Summiteers Association:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Everest#Notable_climbing_records

Quote:

“1998 – Fastest to reach the summit via the southeast ridge (South Col), without supplemental oxygen, by Kazi Sherpa, in 20 hours and 24 minutes”

Further references: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kazi_Sherpa

Contrary to what Kellogg says and contrary to what Outdoor Research says, Marc Batard does not hold ANY records on Mt. Everest any more.

They are trying to deceive the public to believe there is a 2+ hour slower record, and, a record that does not exist, in order to give Kellogg a better advantage.  And they are exploiting the public’s ignorance of Mt. Everest records, and abusing the public’s trust that they will provide accurate information.  And most of the US media believes Kellogg and Outdoor Research as well, such as Outside Magazine, which published everything Kellogg told them verbatim.

(16) I’ve proceeded to file a formal complaint against Outdoor Research with the Attorney General of Washington State, for criminal consumer fraud done egregiously and with depraved indifference.  I’ve also begin an inquiry with the Washington State Governor’s Office, following the action that took place against Dr. Frederick Cook of the 1906 Denali fraud, where such people used their power and high reputations to intimidate and suppress any media from even reporting the other side of the story, for many years.  Even in this modern era, the media will still not enter into this discussion, due to an assortment of reasons, and will be content with allowing the high, mufti-faceted fraud to persist through time, fearing that they would loose sales and readers and advertisers if they embark on a controversy.  Kellogg masterfully knows this, and his fraud is becoming bolder and bolder due to this.  Dr. Cook was found by Congress to have attempted to “pervert history”, and the same is the case with Kellogg I argue in my formal complaint.

Summit-Claim Controversies

Apparent summitclaim fraud of Chad Kellogg

An April 2013 article with US climber Chad Kellogg’s picture at the alleged summit of Luang Ri. 

His photo and caption at the left.
http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=21408

http://www.explorersweb.com/sitemedia/images/20051118xchad_summit_daugou.jpg

1

None of the recognizable summit is shown.  None of the background below the summit is shown.  All that is shown is a whited-out background, with no breaks in the white-out, and a minute rock formation.

This is the 3rd time Kellogg has done this.

He did this for his solo summit claim on Khan Tengri.
His two summit-claim photos [below] show nothing of the summit, and none of the summit background. 

The background appears whited-out.  The photos appear cropped. 

The only object shown is his body.

This is his own list of Khan Tengri photos,

http://chadkellogg.com/galleries/khan_tengri/FrameSet.htm

These two pictures are his only summit-claim photos.

http://chadkellogg.com/galleries/khan_tengri/pages/Khan009.htm
http://chadkellogg.com/galleries/khan_tengri/pages/Khan010.htm

khantengri1

“Khan Tengri August 2003 – Some people say 6995 M. others 7010 M. my watch registered the summit at 7005 Meters”

Khan_Tengri

khantengri1

“Khan Tengri August 2003 – Self Portrait at the summit via the Kuzmin/North Ridge”

Khan_Tengri

Kellogg shows his altimeter watch in the photos.  An altimeter watch can be easily adjusted to any altitude, anywhere, within seconds.   It is very misleading to lead the public to believe it is proof.

Kellogg also did this for his Ama Dablam solo claim. Here is his list of photos
http://www.chadkellogg.com/galleries/ama_dablam/

and this is his summit-claim photo.
http://www.chadkellogg.com/galleries/ama_dablam/pages/Ama%20Dablam011.htm

khantengri1

“On the summit with visions of the Himalaya reflected”

Ama_Dablam

Once again, nothing is shown of the summit, nor the summit background.  Only his body is shown.

There has been discussion that the photos have been heavily edited, and cropped, in order to remove any mountain background that might show that he actually wasn’t on the summit.

[Christian Stangl did this on K2 and was caught lying due to the background in the photo being recognized as being taken from a vantage point well below the summit.  Stangl weeks later admitted to fraud publicly] [ Dr. Frederick Cook did this in 1906 on Denali, and later his “summit photo” was proven fraudulent, but Dr. Cook persisted in claiming he reached the summit]

For Chad Kellogg’s “summit-photos” —

Apparent white-out of any recognizable features of the mountain, for two summit-claims.

Kellogg’s body and clothing take up most of the photos.

Kellogg uses his altimeter-watch in the photos to apparently provide proof he was at the summit, in lieu of the actual summit being shown and any of the summit background being shown.

With the availability of light digital cameras, where the image can be seen instantly, a climber should easily be able to take many photos in order to ensure the photos show the actual summit and summit background. 

An altimeter watch is not proof, and is not a substitute for photos of the climber on the actual summit. 

Kellogg felt a need to provide photos of his altimeter-watch as proof, so Kellogg obviously believes in the importance of summit proof.  However, his summit proof is inadequate, and the pattern of these 3 solo summit-claim photos raises high suspicion.

Kellogg has also been subject to a major controversy about his 2003 Denali speed-record claim.